Route to Everest summit prepared for climbers

By Santosh Raut,Solukhumbu, May 16:The route for climbing Mount Everest (Sagarmatha) has been fully prepared for the spring climbing season.

The route from Everest Base Camp to Camp II was constructed by a team of eight Icefall Doctors under the coordination of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee. 

Above Camp II, the route up to the summit was completed by the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal.

According to the association, a team of experienced climbers assigned to fix ropes above Camp II successfully reached the summit and completed the rope-fixing work. The association said the team was led by Mingma Temba Sherpa, along with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa and Dendi Sherpa.

Rope-fixing is considered one of the most important tasks of every Sagarmatha climbing season, as climbers use the ropes to reach the summit safely. This season, difficulties had emerged after the old route through the Khumbu Icefall became blocked.

After the Icefall Doctors reopened the route through the Khumbu Icefall, experienced climbers were deployed to continue route construction above Camp II. With the rope-fixing work now completed up to the summit, climbers are expected to begin summit attempts depending on weather conditions.

This year, a record 492 climbers have received permits to climb Sagarmath. More than Rs. 1 billion has been collected in royalties from Sagarmatha expeditions alone.

Every year, climbers and Icefall Doctors identify and prepare a new route after snowfall damages the previous one. Icefall Doctors install aluminium ladders, fix ropes and clear snow-covered sections from the Khumbu Icefall to Camp II before climbers can proceed towards the summit. The route from Sagarmatha Base Camp, located at an altitude of 5,364 metres, to Camp II at 6,400 metres contains dozens of small and large crevasses. Most of the route construction work is concentrated below Camp II because of the dangerous icefalls and crevasses in the area. 

Above Camp II, there are fewer crevasses, and technical climbing teams usually handle rope-fixing and route preparation themselves.

As route construction in the Khumbu Icefall is extremely risky, Buddhist rituals and prayers led by lamas are traditionally performed before the work begins. Sherpas who work as Icefall Doctors often risk their lives to prepare the climbing route.

According to the icefall doctors, constructing climbing routes through snow and ice using ropes requires working in highly dangerous conditions. 

The same Sagarmatha Base Camp and route up to Camp II are also used for expeditions to Lhotse and Nuptse.