Once powerful Tashi Dhyaphel Durbar in Lomanthang is now isolated

Dharmendra Jha
    
Lomanthang (Mustang), May 15: A captivating palace in the midst of a dense settlement, which is encircled by a huge wall made from stone and soil.     
    
The Lomanthang palace in Mustang district once was very powerful and a source of people's faith and dignity.    
    
With the passing of the time, the same powerful power centre is not crumbled but also is deserted now.    
    
The palace that witnessed heavy military force since 15th century is now 'guarded' by a Himalayan dog (locally known as Bhote Kukur). As the dog barks at the visitors, the outsiders could consider the dog as if a guard.    
    
Constructed in 15th century from stone, sand and wooden pieces, this palace is known as Tashi Dhyaphel Durbar (literally translated lucky palace in the local language) among the local residents.    
    
Going back to the history, then king Ame Pal constructed a nine metres tall and 563 metres long to safeguard the kingdom from the enemies.    
    
The houses, monasteries and the grand palace inside the huge wall could still be spotted.    
    
The senior citizens here share there were as high as 160 houses inside the wall.    
    
The buildings of the ministries located nearby are still there in Lomanthang. During that time, there was the tradition to build houses only inside the wall, as the king had the fear of enemies if the houses were built outside the wall.    
    
However, this tradition exists no more and the houses are being constructed with the establishment of republic system in the country.    
    
Since the houses are built away from the palace, people's attention to the palace for its protection is lowered, which has left the palace inhibited and isolated.    
    
Some people also call it a 'city of soil' since the palace here was built from soil.    
    
The palace with historical and archeological importance is now expecting preservation, promotion and publicity. But the local people in Lomanthang have complained for state's apathy for the preservation efforts of the palace.    
    
They said that they are worried for its gradual loss in its significance in absence of protection and promotion.    
    
Chairman of Lomanthang Rural Municipality Tashi Norbu Gurung said that people here respect the royal family with regards despite republican system in the country. "So, people even don’t want to visit the palace."    
    
A local said that 21 households are residing in the palace premises while others have left here after out-migration.    
    
As very few people turn up there, the palace is now at risk of being dilapidated.    
    
The outsiders have been barred from entering into the palace after the earthquake, and the details of the inner status of the palace is not clear for public notice.    
    
The last king of Lomanthang, Jigmi Palbar Bista, is equally respected here and people even consider him as the king.    
    
Chairman Gurung said that this palace could be utilized for tourism development and to uplift local people's living standards if it was developed as a tourist destination by preserving the historically and archeologically important Lomanthang Durbar.    
    
Once Lomanthang was a centre of economic activities, thanks to the businesses concentration from India and Tibet too. Due to its economic influence, the king here was powerful.    
    
"Lomanthang was an independent state until 1380. As the salt trade route was closed and cultural movement took place in Tibet, the trade in Lomanthang too decreased. Its impacts were visible on the state's economic status," intellectual Karma Wangel said.    
    
Lomanthang was merged into Nepal as the king here expressed solidarity to King Prithvi Narayan Shah's Nepal unification bid, Wangel added.    
    
Wangel also shared same views that of Rural Municipality Chairman Gurung in regard to tourism. "Wangel viewed that the area could benefit immensely if the restrictive measures on foreigners were relaxed.    
    
A hotelier, Karchung Lhyamo Gurung, also said that this area can benefit hugely if we pay attention to publicity, preservation of the palace and open policy for foreigners.    
    
With five wards in total, the total population of Lomanthang is around 2,000 and the settlement is encircled with the mud wall on the lap of a dry mountain.    
    
A naturally beautiful village, Lomanthang is equally rich in terms of cultural heritages. The palace, monastery, cultural king, Mukhiya tradition, shared cultures of Tibetan community and lifestyle are the identities of Lomanthang.    
    
Visitors could also witness a cave built by poking the hill here and the cave has almost 60 rooms. This historic and touristic site carries immense potential but we have failed to take advantage of this, Gurung observed. Situated at an altitude of 3,850 metres, Lomanthang is also an entry point for Upper Mustang. RSS