Shrinking Snowline In The Himalayas

A few months ago, I had the opportunity to visit Muktinath, a place that had been on my bucket list for years. Instead of the usual family gatherings during the Dashain, a major Nepali festival, we planned for a pilgrimage to spiritual peace. We explored Muktinath Temple and the Korola border in Mustang. It was a great experience that surpassed my expectations. The beauty and serenity of the place left me amazed.

We left Kathmandu early in the morning. Our group had eight people in total, including a couple of journalists, a well-known businessman, and others from different professions. Our diverse backgrounds offered the journey an unusual flavour, as we shared stories, exchanged perspectives, and found common ground despite our differing walks of life. The road was rough and long, but the companionship kept the spirit of the journey alive.

Since the Thankot road was damaged by rain and landslides, we decided to leave the valley via the Shivapuri-Chhahare-Galchhi road, an alternate route at the time to escape the potential traffic. The sharp, steep turns and narrow roads were nerve-wracking, but the stunning views and lively conversations helped us forget the challenges of the road. Despite the bumpy and muddy roads, our journey was delightful this time.

The lively jokes of the journalists, engaging conversations, and beautiful views seen along the road made the journey truly special. Our first stop was at Chhahare, a small settlement in Nuwakot. We enjoyed hot tea and a simple breakfast at a small hut. By the evening, we reached Myagdi and stayed at a hotel on the bank of the Kaligandaki River. Although the hotel was simple, the chill winds, the melody of the river, and its peaceful surroundings offered the perfect pause before continuing our journey the next day.

Muktinath

As the rising sun casts a golden glow over the Himalayas, we started our journey to Muktinath. Muktinath is known as a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists. It is located at an altitude of 3,762 meters. Nestled in the Annapurna range and surrounded by snow-capped peaks, the temple is famous for its 108 water taps from which cold, pure water flows. It is believed that bathing here cleanses one's sins and purifies the soul. We didn’t dare to step into the freezing water but watched as pilgrims performed their sacred rituals, washing away their sins. Thousands of tourists and pilgrims visit the temple every year. The number has increased in recent years with the construction of roads. 

We met people there who had travelled from different parts of Nepal and India. For me, Muktinath was more than just a temple. The spiritual atmosphere, surrounded by majestic Himalayas, gave me a sense of energy and solace. I felt as if the land itself was sacred and had spiritual power. The pristine beauty of Muktinath brought a profound sense of peace and connection. We spent hours taking pictures and enjoying the beauty of nature. The spiritual and natural beauty of the place invigorated us.

Although we were enchanted by the spiritual power and beauty of the place, something troubling caught our attention. The snowline on the mountains had noticeably receded, exposing naked rocky slopes. Thick snow would cover the mountains year-round. The impact of climate change was affecting this fragile region. Last year’s unexpected rainfall, flooding, and damage caused by the Kagbeni River were reminders of these changes. Locals shared their concerns about the warming climate. 

Glacial meltwater had become a less reliable source. Once, these Himalayas would remain covered under thick snow year-round, feeding rivers, supporting livelihoods, and sustaining the ecosystem. However, we noticed that the landscape was visibly changing. The shrinking snow levels reminded us of the urgent need for environmental action. Tourists, drawn for centuries by these pristine Himalayas, now witness a dire situation. We had heard of the diminishing snow level on the Himalayas, but seeing it firsthand made the issue feel real. The snow depletion due to global warming is a serious concern for all. We left with a vow to raise awareness and press for action on our part.

 Upper Mustang

After spending nearly four hours at Muktinath, we proceeded toward Korola, which is located at an altitude of 4,660 meters above sea level. As we climbed higher and higher, the terrain became increasingly rugged, resembling a desert. The mountains began to fall to the south of us. We crossed peak after peak as if climbing an endless staircase. It took us another six hours to reach the Korola border.

By the evening, we reached Korola, but what we saw there disheartened us. The stark contrast between the development on the Chinese side and the limited infrastructure on the Nepali side was obvious. Nepali security forces and officials were working out of makeshift offices in the freezing temperature and strong winds, while the Chinese side had modern buildings and well-equipped facilities. The disparity showed the status of economic development. Despite this, the beauty of the place was magnificent. The view of the mountains, the vast stretch of plains, and the setting sun casting a golden glow on the peaks was mesmerising.

After leaving Korola, we headed south to Lomangthang, an ancient valley in Upper Mustang. This small town, located at an altitude of 3,850 meters, is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism. After dinner, we walked for a few hours, exploring its unique beauty. As this was the perfect season to visit Upper Mustang, every hotel was filled with tourists, both domestic and international.  The flow of tourists has increased significantly ever since the road connection was established. The locals, knowing we were journalists, asked us to write and advocate for upgrading the road. However, many of them were still grateful that the road had finally reached Lomangthang.

Early in the morning, I woke up and went to the terrace to capture the sunlit mountains of the valley. Surrounded by snow-capped Himalayas on all sides, the view left me speechless. Yet, the depletion of the snowline on these mountains was noticeable even here. I imagined how different it would have felt if I had visited there during the winter when the mountains would have been blanketed by the snow. I couldn’t help but think about how many more tourists would visit Mustang if the roads were smooth and open year-round.

We descended the mountains and made our way back to Pokhara. The journey was long and challenging, but each mile we travelled was filled with memories. The journey opened my eyes to the incredible diversity of Nepal. It reminded me that there is so much more to Nepal than the well-known tourist spots. I realised that Nepal's true essence lies far beyond the Himalayas.

Along the way, we delved into lively discussions, blending humour with serious debates on political, social, and economic issues. We reflected on the challenges of the country's infrastructure, particularly the condition of its roads. We talked about the untapped potential of immense water resources. We imagined the possibilities for transforming these remote areas into thriving tourism hubs. This journey provided us a deeper appreciation for Nepal’s immense potential and the raw beauty of its untamed spirit.

(Pokharel writes on business, economy and development issues.)