Under Pressure To Resist Tourist Flow

Upper Mustang, a rare gift of nature and culture, now seems under pressure to resist the flow of visitors. It is because of its history and much more.  

The Mustang may be classified into two parts. Its ancient period in which it was known as Mustang, or Lo or Lho in Tibetan and this area has a rich and ancient human phenomena. The exact origins are not well-documented but one historical account states that the king of Mustang descended from Tibetan throne.  The grandson of Tibet’s Tsrong Tsong Gompo migrated from Tibet to Lho and established a settlement there. His grandson Ame Pal founded a grand kingdom in the year 1437 BS, thus establishing the kingdom of Lo. Ame Pal is believed to be the first King of Lo Manthang. 

It is said that he invited an admired monk from Tibet who managed to study the Tibetan religious ideology and established numerous monasteries and libraries in Lo and surrounded area. Under his guidance, religious books were written, and Lo became a prominent centre for religious institutions, attracting followers from various regions. 

At the time, the King had the main duty of protecting his people from powerful neighbours, so, Ame Pal constructed protective walls to safeguard the kingdom from potential attacks. A magnificent four-story royal palace was also built, and seven administrative centres were established, with the aim of administering the state organs effectively. 

Over time, the kingdom of Lo flourished as a commercial state and became an important trade route between Tibet and India. Mustang collected taxes and its income increased, which stirred envy in neighbouring states like Jumla and Parbat. As a result, Parbat attacked Mustang and captured five of its villages, while Jumla also seized parts of the kingdom. In 1728 BS, a palace was built in Kagbeni, but the invasion from Jumla continued. In 1797 BS, Mustang suffered a significant defeat, and the king of Mustang was forced to accept Jumla’s terms.

The second part of its history goes along with Nepal, that this region was merged with Nepal with the unification campaign started by Great King Prithvi Narayan Shah. Mustang, along with Jumla and other states, became part of Nepal. 

In 2012 BS, the king retired to a monastery, and his son became the new king. However, the son passed away prematurely, leading the former king, Angun Tenzing, to reassume the throne. In 2015 BS, Angun Tenzing became a member of the kingdom’s parliament and was honoured as the Colonel of the Nepal Army. He passed away in 2021 BS, and his youngest son, Jigme Dorje, succeeded him as the 25th King of Mustang. After his succession to the throne, he adopted the surname 'Bista' with the consent of King Mahendra. 

King Jigme Dorje faced a tragic event when his eight-year-old son passed away, leaving him without any other children. Consequently, he named his nephew, Jigme Singhe Palbar Bista, as his heir. On Poush 1, 2073, King Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista passed away, and Jigme Singhe Palbar Bista succeeded him as the new cultural king of Mustang, becoming the 26th King. Even after abolishment of the monarchy, the people of Mustang maintain a deep bond of love and respect for their king. The king and queen are still honoured guests at special occasions and festivals celebrated in Mustang. The cultural ties between the people of Mustang and their king remain strong.

Though the kingdom of Mustang was merged to the kingdom of Nepal, it had the right of conducting all the state affairs freely until April 9, 1961.  After the inauguration of King Mahendra in power suspending the elected democratic government, he promulgated an important act 'Rajya Rajauta Act-2017' and all its power of operating state affairs freely were scraped and all the administrative records were handed over to the government of Nepal.  

This act introduced by King Mahendra in 2017 BS declares in its article 2 (1) that all the states that existed until the time of the commencement of this act have come to an end. Article 5 of this article further declares that land record shall be turned to the record of the Government of Nepal.  According to Ramesh Dhungel, Mustang King had the membership of State Council during Panchayat era and decorated with the title of Colonel of Nepali Army and financially compensated equal to the same post. However, Rajya Rajauta Act 2017 and the constitution 2019 BS and its amendment seem silent in this regard. 

Interestingly, this Rajya Rajauta Act 2017 is alive till date and its latest amendment was made on Jan 31, 2010. The last amendment declares that notwithstanding anything in other articles of this act any homage work in any temple, monasteries or its different modes was continuing from the king existing up to January 31, 2010 according to existing law, and such homage work shall continue with the expense of Nepal Trust Corporation (Guthi Sansthan) excepting work being done with separate source of such temple or monasteries.

 At present Upper Mustang with its prominent geographical scenario and unique lifestyle have made it a unique place to visit by internal as well as foreign tourists. The interesting shape of argillaceous rock, the ancient caves, monasteries existing therein and stories connected with such natural and manmade phenomena make visitors more exited and satisfied. The man-made caves of Upper Mustang, known as the Sky Caves, are believed to have been dug as early as 3,000 years ago, with archaeological evidence indicating at least 2,000 to 3,000 years old and some sources dating them back to 1000 BC. 

It is believed that the caves were dug by the native Lopa people of the Mustang region, who are of Tibetan origin. These caves were used for various purposes, including burial chambers, family dwelling, and later as meditation retreats and monasteries, with some conversions dating to the 10th century and beyond. Those ancient matters remain mysterious to the entire world and are the clue to the researchers of human evolution. In addition to the original Tibetan lifestyle, different agricultural techniques are adopted and Trans Himalayan weather activities are more to experience. 

Another vital factor to make Mustang famous is its holiness for both Hindus and the Buddhists. Damodar Kunda, believed as the origin of holy Kali Gandaki, situated in interior part of Upper Mustang deserves to be a significant spiritual spot of both Buddhists and Hindus. 

People now go crazy to visit Korala boarder and pillars 24 and 23.  Many travel companies have been conducting upper Mustang tour package.  There are many reasons to make this area more crowed in the latest years. Though it can't offer a potential visit in the winter because of its high elevation, the hotels and other daily service providers are reporting being packed in the summer. 

The entire road in this area is rough but being a rain shadow region, passive rain does not badly disturb the road and even rough road seems a satisfied condition.  The main road is expected to be completed within few years. The life style of Mustangees has changed with discharging their duty to the guests and becoming financially strong.  Many hotels, resorts, small motels and restaurants have been opened with different quality and capacity nowadays.

The increment of quality tourist hotels and restaurants is gradually going on than the increment of visitors' volume. Some new constructions with the aim of international facility are being seen in Chhusang, Samar, Ghami, Tserang, Lhomanthang as well as Chhoser.  Jhigme Singhe Palbar Bista, last prince of the kingdom, has established 'Royal Mustang Hotel' with highly comfortable services among other hotels in Lhomanthang outside of the ancient Durbar wall.  He has to serve Upper Mustang with many reasons, that he is from this locality with potential resources and public religious sentiment demands his presence in their periphery with the legacy of traditional monarchy practiced for a long time there. 

It is clearly seen that Upper Mustang with different points of view is a popular destination of the tourists and the life of entire Mustangees is turning to a permanent local tourism business holders from nomadic businessmen of mid-hill region. To avail of such a great opportunity and to make it more effective, local stakeholder themselves, local government, provincial government as well as federal government have to play the roles in their capacity so that Upper Mustang can be a milestone of national economy and a  means of exploring our country.   

( Lamsal is a senior advocate and can be reached at jivanlamsal@gmail.com.)