Kalinchowk Mahakali: Patron Deity Of Dolakha

Kalinchowk, situated at an altitude of 3,842 meters above sea level, is a revered pilgrimage site near the Gaurishankar Himal. With its breathtaking natural views, it has become an attractive tourist destination. One of the site’s mysteries lies in a small temple dedicated to Mahakali at the summit of Kalinchowk Hill, where a sacred water pond remains filled throughout the year.

According to legend, Kalinchowk Mahakali’s origins trace back to a time when numerous sheep sheds existed in the area. Shepherds observed that their flocks would consistently gather near the temple, licking stones and digging the soil daily. Eventually, the shepherds discovered a ‘Jalakunda’ (sacred water pond) at the very spot where the sheep had been drawn. Despite its small size, the pond remained perpetually filled with water, leading people to revere it as the sacred abode of Kalinchowk Mahakali. 

Many myths surround this mystical water source. In the past, elders believed that the water from this Kund flowed into the holy pond known as ‘Nirmal’, located beneath the image of Lord Bhimeshwor in Dolakha. Another legend claims that this water tank serves as the origin of two significant rivers: the Tamakoshi River, which flows east of Kalinchowk Temple, and the Sunkoshi River, which flows to the west.

A rare book, Nepal Desh Ko Itihas, states: "There are four Kalis among the deities of Nepal – Guhyakali, Vatsala, Dakshinkali, and Mahakali. Mahakali is Kalinchowk." From the name itself, it is clear that Kalinchowk is not dedicated to Bhagwati but to Devi Mahakali and that Kalinchowk is the sacred abode of Devi Mahakali.

According to Yogi Narharinath in Our Country's Philosophy, "The area where bloodthirsty demons like Mahishasura were slain is known as Kali's battlefield—Kalinchowk." Additionally, folk singer Kumar Basnet composed a song in 2022/23, referring to Kalinchowk as ‘Kalimata.’

According to mythology, it was Parvati, the consort of Mahadev, who took different forms, such as Goddess Durga, Goddess Kali, and Goddess Bhagwati, and destroyed the powerful evil demons and freed the world from terror.

There is a close relationship between Kalinchowk Mahakali and the culture and society of Dolakha. Balram Shrestha, a local cultural expert in his articles (“Kageshtami”), writes, “The tradition of special worship of Kalika Devi on the day of Bhadra Shukla Kagestami and Janai Purnima on Kalika Bhagwati (Kalinchowk) was called Kagestami Guthi. In Kalinchowk, there is no idol of Kalika, but a small water pond is considered the symbol of Kali. Much later, in 2061 B.S., devotees installed stone statues of Kali and Bhagwati in the premises of Kalinchowk.

The idol of Kalika, a crown and other ornaments used to be placed in the hollow of the wall of the water tank and worshiped. The placed ornaments were taken to Dolakha by four people on a decorated chariot on the afternoon of Kagestami. “ Similarly, on the day of Janai Purnima, the Dafa Khalak visit Kalinchowk with the Khat decorated with “Kali’s ornaments”.

According to legend, the tradition of special worship of Goddess Kali on Kagestami was started by a person named Manishankar of Dwakuchhen Tole, who kept a cowshed in Kalinchowk in 1826. He became rich after taking a bag of jewellery he found on the road and worshipping it daily, saying that it was given to him by Kalinchowk Mata. That is why he started the festival as per everyone's advice. Later, due to financial difficulties, it became difficult to maintain this tradition, so Manishankar's descendant, the late Tika Bahadur Shrestha, in 2005 BS, requested the Rana Prime Minister Mohan Shumsher, who ordered to give him an annual Rs. 14 from the Dolakha Mal to maintain this tradition, which was later increased to Rs. 800. From that amount, the Guthi was operated with great difficulty. After a massive fire in Dolakha city in 2023 B.S., which destroyed the ornaments, a culturally significant tradition of Kalinchowk was lost.

Every year, on the day of Chaturdashi during Hile Jatra, two groups of Dafa Khalaks from the lower and upper toles of Dolakha go to Kalinchowk to seek the blessings of Mahakali at Kalinchowk to defeat Mahishasura and other demons. The next day, on Janai Purnima, they return and circumambulate the city with the traditional music.

Kalinchowk Mahakali is the esteemed deity of the people of Dolakha. In the past, the Newars of Dolakha used to be the priests of the temple. On the occasion of the Hile Jatra, on the day of Chaturdashi and on the day of Janai Purnima, since devotees would come from far and wide to perform the Bali puja, it was customary for the Newars of Dolakha to go there and perform puja as a priest. The devotees used to offer the head and neck of a goat as a gift to the priest. For this reason, most of the residents of Dolakha city used to go to pay homage and perform the puja of Kalinchowk Mai and offer sacrifices of goats and roosters.

Earlier, the Newars of Dolakha also kept cowsheds in the pastures of the Kalinchowk area. As the late Lal Bahadur Joshi wrote in his diary, “Before 1978 B.S., his grandfather, Kajiman Joshi, had raised a large herd of cows in a cowshed that was located in the Kalinchowk area, which, when winter set in, was carried down from Kalinchowk to Marbubensi on the bank of the River Tamaksoshi during the rainy season."

Most of the areas of Kalinchowk, including Gairi, Mehle, Kuri, Tutan, and Thami Deurali, are the Guthi land of the residents of Dolakha town kept as pasture. The income received from the tenants who keep the cowsheds there was used to run the Guthi of the Ghantakarna festival in Dolakha city, and there was also a custom of worshipping Bhimeshwar and Tripuraundari.

This custom was continued by King Rajendra Bikram Shah in 1886 B.S. by giving the lands in the name of the Guthiyar of Dwakulunga, Dwakuchhen, Pingal, Korchhen, Biharchhen and Gurkot toles by sealing the paper with a red seal. According to Tirtha Narayan Joshi, an expert on Dolakha culture, the tenants used to give goats, sheep, milk (one day's , two tins of ghee, curd, potatoes, etc., for Guthi to the Guthiyars who went there.

The Guthiyar would prepare rice pudding from the milk collected and offer a ‘Pathi’ sacrifice to Kalinchowk Devi before returning. Upon returning to Dolakha, they would sell the ghee and purchase the necessary items for the puja and the feast. This Guthi is managed by the Guthiyar, who take turns each year among the six Guthiyars of Dolakha. However, the tradition of operating a Guthi based on income generated from Kalinchowk faded after the political changes of 2046 B.S.

(Dr. Joshi, a professor of business economics, writes on economic and cultural topics.)