Spring ascent begins on Annapurna-I, Dhaulagiri

By Thakur Prasad Acharya,Beni, Apr. 20: The spring climbing season has commenced on Annapurna-I and Dhaulagiri located in Myagdi. 

The first ascents of the season have been completed on the 8,091-metre Annapurna-I in Narchyang of Annapurna Rural Municipality–4, and the 8,167-metre Dhaulagiri in Mudi of Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality–4.

Taking advantage of favourable weather conditions, a team including foreign climbers successfully summited both peaks on Saturday, according to Thaneshwor Guragain, operator of Seven Summit Treks.

The team organised by Seven Summit Treks departed from base camp on Tuesday, April 14 and completed the ascent of Annapurna despite a challenging route. Guragain noted that the climb was made possible after a fixing team had opened the route earlier. 

A total of 10 climbers—five foreigners and five Sherpa guides—reached the summit. The foreign climbers included Charles Page (Canada), Valery Babanov, Vladimir Afanasyev and Yuri Kruglov (Russia), and Israfli Ashurly (Azerbaijan).

The Nepali Sherpa guides supporting the climb were Lakpa Sherpa, Chhewang Sherpa, Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, Pasang Dukpa Sherpa and Chhangba Sherpa. All climbers have safely descended to Camp II, according to the company. 

Despite continuous snowfall and difficult terrain, the successful ascent at the very start of the spring season has been regarded as a significant achievement, said local tourism entrepreneur Tej Gurung, who is also a promoter of the Maurice Herzog Trail.

With the climbing season now under way, the base camp at an altitude of 4,190 metres is currently crowded with climbers, Sherpas, guides, and tourists. According to the Department of Tourism, 27 climbers, including eight women in four groups, have obtained permits to climb Annapurna this spring.

Similarly, according to Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Chair of Pioneer Adventure, the foreign climbers who summited Dhaulagiri include Irina Halai and Valentin Sypavin (Ukraine), Kyoko Iwata (Japan), Aichul Chung (South Korea), Vladimir-Radu Falcutescu (Romania), and Bhagwan Bhikoba Chavle, Shivaji Laxman Nanware, and Dwarka Vishwanath Dokhele (India).

From the Nepali Sherpa team, Sanu Sherpa, Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa, Nima Ungdi Sherpa, Dandu Sherpa, Dawa Chhiring, Ang Gelu Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Nikhil Sherpa, and Lakpa (Langki) Sherpa also successfully reached the summit.

Dhaulagiri is considered one of the more technically demanding and hazardous peaks. Chair of Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality, Prem Pun, expressed confidence that the successful ascent has sent a positive message for the promotion of mountaineering tourism.

According to the DoT, 28 climbers—including 12 women in three groups—had obtained permits for Dhaulagiri this spring. It also reported that a total royalty of Rs. 12.56 million has been collected from Dhaulagiri expeditions. Other climbers with permits have also reached the base camp.