I missed President Jimmy Carter when he first came to Nepal for observing elections. Things happen for a reason! The constituent assembly election was taking place, and he was coming back. I was contacted by my British friend working in the US to take him on a birding trip. So nobody was locally involved! Things might have changed again if the powers of the locals were to be exercised in my country. I was taking Jimmy Carter on a bird-watching trip this time for sure!
I was in touch with a fellow who was temporarily attached to the US Embassy here for Carter’s visit. One day he and I went out to my recommended and favourite birding area in the Kathmandu Valley, the Phulchoki ill. Although I cannot now remember his name, I remember his appearance and behavior. He was a US Secret Service agent.
Our recce trip to Phulchoki was fruitful at the end. He told me that I would be reaching Phulchoki at 5:00 am in my own car on the day I am supposed to guide Carter. He would do the same. President Carter’s motorcade would come and stop where we would wait to greet him. Then the whole motorcade would start going towards the Phulchoki hill, and I was supposed to be trailing behind in one of the cars. Actually, the agent told me that I would be using my own car for all this.
But I told the agent that this is not really how I do birding. Due to the motorcade noise, when the President gets out of the car, the birds would be gone. I told him that I needed to be with the President if I was to show any birds to him. He was adamant that there was absolutely no way that I would be in the same ‘limo’ as President Carter. I did not want to argue too much with him as I feared that I would lose the opportunity to be with a man whom I had so much respect for and longed to see.
The next morning, the day of the trip, I reached the spot on time. Everything was supposed to be kept a secret. The secret agent was already there, very alert, smartly dressed, and with his ears wired.
After a wait of half an hour or so, Carter’s motorcade arrived. I went as advised towards his limo and greeted him. A fine man with grey hairs, Carter smiled and wanted me to tell my name again. ‘Mr. President, my name is Hem, and I am your bird guide.’ Hem, he got my name firmly, and I was so happy. He asked what we should do. I suggested that only two vehicles go up the hill, one with security personnel and one with Carter and I together in the same limo. He consulted whoever the chief of his security was at that time. Security agreed to this plan, and off we went, leaving behind a number of cars and police bikes that formed his motorcade.
We went up and spent nearly two hours birdwatching. We saw a number of species, mostly resident, as it was already April. With initial difficulty to talk to him due to awe and fear, now I had got hold of my confidence. He was such a simple man, so easy to talk to. I have never been so comfortable talking with a high-profile person. The birding ended with the decision to return to the hotel. Carter asked if I could join him for breakfast. I immediately agreed, as the offer made me forget what my plans were for the day.
He was staying in a suite at the Soaltee Hotel. On reaching the hotel, we immediately went towards the breakfast place where several other hotel guests, including Carter’s aides, were having breakfast. As we were entering, there was a bloke sitting outside the entrance of the hotel who saw Carter and said, ‘Hi, Jimmy!’ Carter said hi and waved. I felt that the remark by the fellow who was smoking a cigarette outside the hotel entrance was a little rude.
While walking to the breakfast place, I wanted to let Carter walk ahead of me. I had been confused about how the things worked. President Carter's security kept on pushing me to put me on his side. For a brief moment, I felt I had been a hostage under the arms. But of course, that was the security norm.
At breakfast, Carter introduced me to some of his colleagues who apparently served at the White House while he was the President. Carter filled a plate with toast and eggs and brought it to me. I was being served! While having breakfast, he said he should have taken Rosalyn out for birding as well. ‘Hem, what is your tomorrow morning's schedule? Are you free?’ ‘Yes, Mr. President, I am free.’ I said.
Carter decided to go birdwatching the following morning also. I suggested the same place for various reasons, though travel would take time and reduce the actual birdwatching hours. As per his request, I was to meet him at Soaltee Hotel the next morning instead of Godavari for the birding.
I arrived 10 minutes early to meet Carter at the Soaltee. I was with Carter in the same car along with Rosalyn Carter, Becky (Carter’s daughter-in-law), and Brian. We had great birding on this day too. Carter shared how much he enjoyed the birding with me. He noted that our trip was one of the best birding days he had experienced.
I returned with Carter to the hotel. Rosalyn brought some food for me—some pieces of chocolate cake she baked herself. President Carter gave me ‘Beyond The White House,’ a book written by him with his signature. I bade a final goodbye to both President Carter and Lady Rosalyn, promising to send the bird list to his private email address.
I remember President Carter talking about his own children and grandchildren. Then he asked me about my children. By then my wife Kalpana and I had just set up a charity, AutismCare Nepal, as my elder daughter is autistic. He said one of his relatives had mild autism and shared how difficult it can be for both parents raising children with autism. He appeared to be a very social person with great family values. What a great privilege I have had to meet this Nobel Peace laureate, not only to listen to his great thoughts but also to share my own knowledge with him. My impression after meeting him is that he is one of the finest human beings of the world of the time.
President Carter died today (29 December 2024) after living a life with his service reaching the world's remotest corners. He lived a full life of 100 years. My heartfelt respect to the late Jimmy Carter. May your soul rest in peace!
(Baral is a noted bird scientist and conservationist of Nepal.)