Mustang man serving free meals to pilgrims for 12 years

By Harikrishna Sharma,Mustang, Sept. 22: In the high mountains of Upper Mustang, where freezing cold winds and rough trails challenge every pilgrim, one man has devoted his life to 

serving them.

For the past 12 years, 65-year-old Dandu Gurung of Yara, Lo-Ghekar Damodar Kunda Rural Municipality–4, has been providing free meals to devotees travelling to the sacred Damodar Kunda, one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for both Hindus and Buddhists. 

Located at an altitude of 4,890 metres above sea level, Damodar Kund is revered as the source of the Kali Gandaki River and home to the sacred Shaligram, fossil stones worshipped as an incarnation of Lord Bishnu.

Legends believe that bathing in its icy waters washes away sins. According to Krishna Prasad Subedi, the priest of the famous Muktinath Temple, there is a religious belief that the sons of Kubera bathed in Damodar Kunda to cleanse themselves of their sins. 

Since Shaligram Shila (sacred fossil stones) are found only in the Kali Gandaki River, pilgrims bring back Shaligrams and water from this area to place in the shrines of their homes. 

Thousands of Nepali pilgrims, particularly during May to August, continue this ancient tradition.

Yet, the journey is difficult. Pilgrims must traverse steep trails, endure freezing temperatures, even below zero degree Celsius and battle the risk of altitude sickness. 

Seeing exhausted devotees resting hungry under the open sky moved Gurung deeply. More than a decade ago, with no institutional support at the time, he began offering meals to pilgrims from his own resources.

“Serving the pilgrims has become my life’s calling,” says Gurung. “Even when I fall ill, I make sure food reaches them, sometimes carrying it myself to the shelter.”

Today, with support from local lamas and volunteers, Gurung manages to serve anywhere between 15 to 300 pilgrims a day. 

During peak season, when demand soars, food grains are transported on horseback and mules from the lower villages. Besides meals, Gurung also provides basic lodging for the sick, offers local remedies for altitude sickness and ensures that no pilgrim feels abandoned on their sacred journey.

Mustang’s Chief District Officer, Bishnu Prasad Bhusal, calls Gurung’s service exemplary. 

“He risks his own health and safety for the welfare of others. Because of him, countless pilgrims find the strength to complete their journey,” Bhusal said. 

The government strictly regulates entry to Damodar Kunda, as it lies within a restricted area near the Nepal–Tibet border. 

While foreign visitors, including Indians, must pay USD 500 for a 10-day permit, most pilgrims are Nepalis. Around 5,000-7,000 domestic tourists visited the areas last year alone, said ward chair Jhyang Chhesa Gurung.

Facilities remain basic. A modest rest house offers space for around 100 pilgrims to spend the night, while those continuing must endure long rides. 

After reaching Charang in Upper Mustang via the Jomsom–Korala road along the Kaligandaki Corridor, pilgrims travel for about two hours by vehicle and then begin their trek from Yara village. 

Although the road extends up to Jhuma Thati above Yara, it is not in a good condition, so devotees usually continue their journey on horseback from Yara. From Yara, it takes around five hours on horseback and about the same duration on foot to reach Damodar Kunda. 

However, due to the lack of proper road transport, communication and settlement facilities, the journey to Damodar Kunda remains quite challenging.

Along the Jomsom–Korala road section, the route extends up to Ghimi Thati, from where pilgrims continue their journey on foot or horseback to reach Damodar Kunda for worship and then return. Damodar Kunda is regarded as the crown of the Muktichhetra (sacred land of liberation) and the source of the Kali Gandaki River.

Still, the hardships are part of the devotion. At the site itself, pilgrims are greeted by three glacial lakes, Chakra Kunda, Dudh Kunda and Tamu Kunda, with the first two adjoining and the third set slightly apart, forming a trio of spiritual sanctuaries.

In the harsh, barren land of Upper Mustang, where life is a daily struggle, Gurung’s kindness has created a rare haven. For weary pilgrims arriving cold and hungry, his meals are more than food, they show that true devotion is found not only in prayer, but also in service.