680 climbers reach Dhaulagiri summit in 65 years

BY THAKUR PRASAD ACHARYA,Myadgi, May 23:  Over the 65 years since the first successful ascent of Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh-highest peak, a total of 680 climbers have reached its summit till date. Located in Mudi of Ward No. 4 in Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality, Myagdi, the mountain poses a significant challenge for climbers due to its rapidly changing weather conditions, making it more difficult than many other peaks.

According to a mountaineering record book published by the Department of Tourism, 638 people had summited Dhaulagiri by the end of 2023. An additional 42 climbers successfully reached the top in the following two years, bringing the total to 680.

In 2024, 29 climbers summited Dhaulagiri and as of now in 2025, 13 more have reached the summit, according to Department of Tourism Spokesperson Liladhar Awasthi. He said that because Dhaulagiri is one of the most technically challenging of the 8,000-metre peaks, fewer climbers attempt it each year.

The first successful ascent of Dhaulagiri took place on May 13, 1960, by a team consisting of four Swiss climbers, one Austrian, one German and two Nepali Sherpas. The expedition, led by Max Eiselin, was a joint Swiss-Austrian effort. Members of the summit team included Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Michel Vaucher, Hugo Weber and Nepali Sherpas Nima Dorje and Nawang Dorje.

On the occasion of the 65th anniversary of this ascent, a commemorative event was held on May 13 in Pokhara. However, local representatives from Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality were not informed.

"We only found out about the celebration in Pokhara through social media," said Prem Prasad Pun, Chairperson of Dhaulagiri Rural Municipality. “The municipality was not informed at all. Next year, we will push for the anniversary to be celebrated in the Dhaulagiri region itself.”

Local tourism entrepreneur Hariprasad Tilija from Mudi Bagar emphasised the need for better promotion and infrastructure development for the Round Dhaulagiri Trek. He expressed concern that the local government has not prioritised the development of the trekking route.

“At least five suspension bridges are needed along the trail,” he said. “If we could build proper trails, shelters for trekkers and other basic infrastructure, it would make the trek much easier and more appealing for visitors.”

The Round Dhaulagiri Trek starts from Mudi and typically takes nine days. From there, trekkers cross the French Pass at an altitude of 5,400 metres and descend into Marpha in Mustang. The route includes stops at Bagar, Dobhan, Sallaghari, Italian Base Camp, Japanese Base Camp, Dhaulagiri Base Camp, Hidden Valley Base Camp and Yak Kharka before reaching Marpha.

Tilija said that in recent years, the number of trekkers and climbers coming for the Round Dhaulagiri route has declined. He attributed this partly to the ongoing war between Russia and Ukraine, which has reduced the number of Russian and Ukrainian climbers, who were previously the most frequent visitors.

Another major reason for the decline is the trek’s duration and high cost. “You have to walk through snow for four to five days straight,” he said. “The cost is high because you need a large number of guides to carry food and supplies.”

According to Tilija, many sections of the route still lack even basic infrastructure like simple bridges over streams. The absence of railings, route markers and avalanche hazard signs also poses risks for trekkers. He expressed hope that if the government were to invest in basic infrastructure and promotion, the number of trekkers in the Dhaulagiri region could increase significantly.