Nepal's Cultural Links With Mansarovar

Before the COVID-19 pandemic, one devotee from Bajhang was planning to go to Mansarovar but he was discouraged when he was said to pay Rs. 150,000 to travel from Taklakot to Mansarovar. What was more hurtful was that the pilgrims had to hide inside the vehicle while being ferried to the sacred site of Hindus. Another pilgrim, by virtue of tradition, was supposed to perform puja in Kailash Mansarovar but he could not do so as entry to Taklakot was closed due to the pandemic. Then he was suggested to perform rituals at Tapowan, a local pilgrimage, to please the linage God but this would not fulfill the religious requirement. There has been a long-held tradition that holy water from Mansarovar is a must to conduct puja in Mandu, a temple of Langa god, at Kaprikot. In Masta Mandu, puja programme cannot be performed in the dearth of holy water. Some Dhamis are waiting for the holy bath in Mansarovar to get full incarnation of gods on them. 

The above mentioned examples show that the visit to Kailash and Mansarovar is inherently related with cultural life of people of Bajhang. There are more than one thousand temples in the district alone. They need holy water of Mansarovar for puja and purification of temples related to various deities such as Masta, Lakuda, Langa and Bathapala. Every year, in June and July, people visit Kailash Mansarovar and return within two months. They bathe in the Mansarovar Lake and bring the holy water with them. In the succeeding winter, pujas are performed. Almost all the people of this district have to visit Mansarovar. If someone personally wants to make the God happy, he can bring holy water personally also. The people have been following this tradition for thousands of years.

Kailash-Haridwar corridor

The border-crossing point of Urailek and Taklakot has a history dating back to the Ramayana era. Lord Ram, along with Laxman and Sita, was also believed to have travelled this way to pay homage to the Kailash Mansarovar. It has been known as Kailash-Haridwar corridor since ancient time. Besides spiritual value, it was an important route for trade known as the main branch of ancient Silk Road. Nearly one thousand years ago, Langa God travelled this way by clearing all the obstacles. Langa re-opened this route and facilitated the easy movement of the visitors from either side. In the presence of Langa God, a treaty was signed between Nepali and Tibetan authorities. The ancient accord was in effect for thousands of years and continued till 1961.     

Langa God took the responsibility to protect the pilgrims. This god is worshiped in Tibet area also. His main shrine is at Tand of Nepal where people of Tibet also visit to worship. People of Bajhang got special privileges to visit Kailash Mansarovar since the ancient period. These pilgrimage sites are related not only with their culture but also life and death. The people from both the countries have maintained good relation with each other. They have also social and marital ties also. The great Himalayas and perennial rivers stand as the witness of their deep friendship. In fact, Taklakot market was established by Bajhangi traders to ensure the trade facility for people of both sides. But they have been displaced from there in recent time. They cannot even enter Taklakot using this border point. It is imperative to further study historic contribution of Bajhangi people.

The generation of this writer is the last one, who used the Tibetan salt brought from Taklakot. People visiting Mansarovar have to follow rules set by the ancient deity. They have to stop at night in given places. No one should walk more than given distance for pilgrimage. No  alternative route is used for this purpose. While carrying the holy water, vehicle cannot be used because of fear of it being impure. Pilgrims have to walk on foot all the way from their home village to Taklakot and Mansarovar and come back to own place. A single person carrying water is responsible for its purity.

Border treaty 

It takes three days to reach Mansarovar from Taklakot, with two nights’ stay at Gauri cave. Complaints were heard that people have been compelled to use vehicles by their owners and being hidden with tent clothes. For this, pilgrims have to pay more money. The border treaty of 1961 between Nepal and China changed the geography of both countries. People of Bajhang have nothing to do with that treaty. They keep concern about their cultural activities only. Even after this treaty, the people enjoyed easy access to the Kailash Mansarovar by producing travel documents. But, with the COVID-19, the oldest historical border-point was shut, which also disrupted the age-old cultural and religious activities between the two people.

While participating as a trainee at Public Security University College, Beijing, this writer got a chance to understand how much Chinese authority has given priority to security matters. When a delegation of home ministry met with Vice Governor of TAR, Director General of PSD, they also expressed security concern along Nepal-China border. They appreciated the role of Nepal government in controlling anti–Chinese activities. No doubt, security concern must be given a top priority. At the same time, it is necessary to be sensitive about cultural ties that the people of two nations have nurtured for centuries. Nepal is ready to adopt additional security measures. The people from Bajhang have been repeatedly making a humble request to both the governments to forge an understanding to open this cross-border point so that their cultural activities resume without hurdles.

(The author is former Deputy Inspector General of Nepal Police,)